Ancient Nemea, a tiny Peloponnesian village in Greece, has always been old-fashioned. Dial phones didn't arrive until 1984. Cars and trucks weren't common until the late '80s. Widows still wear black for life. And the only traffic jams are caused by herds of sheep.

But it wasn't until University of California, Berkeley archaeologist Stephen Miller came to town in 1973 that the agricultural village's 450 residents began to see just how ancient, and how historic, Ancient Nemea is.

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